ha-ha at Ikebukuro, Tokyo

A long-running casual Italian dining bar near Ikebukuro's west exit, famed for its crab cream pasta.

ha-ha has been a fixture of Ikebukuro's west side since 2000, a back-alley dining bar and cafe whose name was chosen in the hope of a shop full of laughter. The kitchen turns out casual Italian plates, but the real claim to fame is a crab cream tomato pasta served only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, which draws loyal fans back week after week. The room is dimly lit and homey, with counter and table seating that suits both solo diners and small groups. Beyond the signature pasta, the daily-changing pasta choices range from a spicy peperoncino to a hearty chicken cacciatora, with pizza and a la carte dishes rounding out the menu. Lunch sets come with salad, soup and a drink for around a thousand yen, and beer, wine and other drinks are kept at a friendly single price, making it an easy place to settle in. Cashless payment is available and the shop keeps long hours from midday until midnight. Whether you time your visit for that coveted crab pasta or simply want a relaxed glass of wine with honest Italian food, ha-ha makes the effort feel worthwhile. Its tucked-away location off the main drag lends it a quietly convivial atmosphere that regulars treasure. Pop in for lunch or an evening unwind and discover why this unassuming bar has outlasted so many of its neighbours.