極 蘭州拉麺 at Ikebukuro, Tokyo

Hand-pulled Lanzhou beef noodles in a small Ikebukuro shop, run by a Chinese couple since 2009.

Goku Lanzhou Ramen is a compact noodle shop on Ikebukuro's Heiwa-dori that has been turning out hand-pulled Lanzhou beef noodles since 2009. Run by a Chinese couple, it keeps things simple with a handful of counter and table seats and hand-written menus that speak to its homespun character. The Lanzhou style is a halal-friendly beef-bone broth, clear yet rich, topped with chilli oil, daikon, fresh coriander and a bright yellow coil of noodle. The signature Lanzhou beef noodle comes in a curry-seasoned version as well as the classic, and diners can choose the thickness of their hand-stretched noodle from fine to flat to triangular. A Sichuan sesame dan-dan noodle, pan-fried and boiled dumplings and a Qingdao beer round out a short, focused menu. The shop keeps long hours from late morning to late night without a fixed day off, and cash is the rule here. For a bowl of genuine regional Chinese noodle craft without any fuss, Goku Lanzhou Ramen is a rewarding stop in central Ikebukuro. The steady stream of Chinese regulars is a good sign, and the welcoming husband-and-wife team make first-timers feel at ease. Find a seat at the counter and watch the noodles being pulled to order.